How To Waterproof Fabric Naturally? [Process, Time & Cost]
Most of the fabrics get thoroughly wet on coming in contact with water. And even if a fabric is sturdier than usual, the seams which are used to piece an item together, are enough to let in most of the water.
Water can be a major problem for fabrics in scenarios where getting dry is the best way either from the health or maintenance point of view.
Every now and then one might want to have a waterproof mat, tarp, bag, tent, pants, hat, tablecloth, sneakers, etc. so that they remain well protected and are easier to maintain.
The fabrics you may want to waterproof can be anything from denim, canvas, leather, to cotton, linen, nylon, and many more. This article discusses the best approach for waterproofing your fabric naturally.
How To Waterproof Fabric Naturally?
Oils and waxes have traditionally been used for ages to protect clothes and other textiles from the action of water, dirt, and wind.
These are the best natural options that give a matt and rubbery finish to the fabric. They contain lots of fatty acids and aromatic compounds which make them brilliantly hydrophobic and thus, water-resistant.
Below listed are 3 effective methods to waterproof fabric naturally.
- Using Pure Beeswax
- Using Boiled linseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine
- Using Soybean oil and turpentine
1. How To Waterproof Fabric Naturally Using Pure Beeswax?
Beeswax is a natural wax that is secreted by the worker bees. It has a white to yellow tinge to it. Beeswax has hydrophobic and emulsifying properties which repel any water, rust, and dirt which comes in contact with it.
It contains fatty acid alcohols, hydrocarbons, carotenoids, and many more substances. Its melting point is quite high and once applied to the fabric it stiffens it.
A pure beeswax is an ideal option especially if you are waterproofing leather. It gets absorbed into the pores of the leather, sealing and making it waterproof. And also it nourishes the natural fibers of leather.
Pure beeswax (without any other ingredient for waterproofing) gives significantly more pliability to fabrics like cotton, nylon, linen, and more. Moreover, unlike drying oils it doesn’t give out a pungent odor.
Required Items
- Beeswax bar / beeswax pellets
- Heat gun / iron
- Parchment paper (optional)
- Newspaper
Procedure [Step by Step]
1. Prepare the fabric to be waxed

- Wash the fabric with detergent and water if it is dirty. Otherwise, light dirt and dust can easily be brushed off.
- Make sure the fabric is completely dry.
- Spread a newspaper on the working surface, and keep the fabric on it. This will protect the working surface as wax stains can be hard to remove.
2. Coat the beeswax on the fabric

Beeswax bar (preferred for bigger fabrics):
- If using a beeswax bar, warm it up from one side gently using a heat gun. (If available, a hairdryer can be used instead). This will make it easy to apply.
- Rub the bar on the fabric, so that you have enough beeswax on the fabric.
Beeswax pellets (preferred for smaller fabrics):
- Keep the beeswax pellets spread out on the fabric.
- Cover with parchment paper.
- Using a cloth iron on a low setting, press it on the parchment paper.
- Make sure that the fabric is well waxed everywhere. You can use more beads if you have to. This approach lets you eliminate doing step no. 3.
3. Heat the applied coat

- When you’re done rubbing all your fabric, the beeswax would have cooled. To melt it again, use a heat gun/hairdryer.
- Start heating a small section, and rub the melted wax using your fingers so that it gets well absorbed into the fabric.
- Finish doing the whole fabric this way.
4. Let the fabric cure

- Let the waxed fabric sit for around 24 hours before you use it.
Precautions and aftercare
- As the wax coat diminishes over time, you should reapply the beeswax seasonally or as per the need.
- For extra protection, the fabric can be coated inside out as well.
- Apply more wax on the seams of the fabric, as these areas are more prone to water.
- Only cold water should be used to wash the waterproofed fabric. Besides, washing should be manually.
- To avoid creases, keep the fabric rolled up instead of folded.
- Since the beeswax is flammable, never expose the waxed fabric to extremely high temperatures.
Time
It will take around two days before the entire procedure is finished.
Cost
The approximate cost of required items:
- Beeswax bar/ beeswax pellets: $15
- Heat gun/iron: $20
- Parchment paper (optional): $10
The total estimated cost: $45
2. Boiled Linseed Oil, Beeswax, and Turpentine to Waterproof Fabrics Naturally
Linseed oil is extracted from flax seeds. For waterproofing purposes, boiled linseed oil is used as opposed to raw oil because the former has better drying properties.
Linseed oil is a drying oil which means once it is applied on a surface, it will cure and dry hard. This curing takes place due to a chemical reaction and not due to evaporation simply.
Thus, after application on your fabric, the linseed oil will never vaporize. This oil converts the fabric into ‘tin cloth.’ However, it should not be used to waterproof leather. It will harden and deteriorate the leather over time.
Linseed oil can also be mixed with beeswax. Along with beeswax, it gives a superior finish. This gives the fabric a sturdier feel as well. Wax seals in all the seams, and oil helps it to get absorbed better in the fabric.
To speed up the drying of this waterproofing concoction, turpentine is used. Turpentine is a natural product that comes from the distillation of resin of certain pine trees. It is yellow and a little viscous. It dries simply by evaporating into the air, thereby decreasing the drying time.
Required Items
- Beeswax
- Boiled linseed oil
- Turpentine
- Double boiler and stirrer
- Brush
- Heat gun
- Measuring cup
- Electric burner
- Newspaper
Procedure [Step by Step]
1. Clean the fabric

- Wash the fabric if needed. Or else, you can simply blow the dirt away using a cloth brush or vacuum cleaner.
- Dry the fabric thoroughly.
2. Prepare the double boiler set up and melt the wax

- Fill the bottom saucepan with sufficient water.
- Turn on the electric burner and keep the filled pan on it so that the water can boil.
- Keep the smaller saucepan on top of the boiling water.
- Break the beeswax bar into pieces and put it in the smaller saucepan. You can grate the wax for faster melting.
- Stir occasionally and wait for around an hour or until the beeswax liquefies completely.
3. Mix the linseed oil and turpentine

- Measure the linseed oil and turpentine using a measuring cup. The ratio of beeswax, linseed oil, and turpentine should be 2:1:1.
- Once the wax melts, pour the linseed oil and keep stirring continuously.
- Add turpentine to the mixture while stirring continuously.
- Turn off the electric burner.
4. Warm the fabric

- For ease of application, toss the fabric into a dryer for some time. The hot air will warm the fabric.
5. Apply the mixture to the fabric

- Spread the newspaper/drop sheet on the working surface to protect it from any stain or wax build-up. Keep the fabric on it.
- Let the saucepan containing mixture remain on top of boiling water. This will maintain the temperature of the mixture.
- Dip the brush into the mixture.
- Soak the fabric completely by brushing on small sections at a time.
- If the mixture in the saucepan starts to solidify, you can reheat it.
6. Heat the applied layer

- Turn on the heat gun on low (use a high setting if using a hairdryer).
- Point the heat gun towards the fabric and heat the wax so that it seeps right into the fabric.
- Small buildups of wax can be rubbed into the fabric, using fingers.
7. Check the evenness and let the wax cure

- Once cool, check if the wax layer is uneven.
- For more sturdiness, you can apply a second coat as well and heat it.
- Hang the fabric for effective drying. Let the waxed fabric dry for around 24-72 hours.
Precautions and aftercare
- To get rid of bad odors, you can keep the fabric in a freezer for a day.
- A hairdryer or heat gun can be used to remove unwanted creases after multiple uses, and to keep the fabric more malleable.
- The mixture should never be exposed to open flames. It can cause a serious fire hazard.
- Use gloves to rub wax with your fingers.
- Before disposing of the brushes or rags, make sure you keep them outdoor to dry. Else, they might catch fire.
Time
The whole procedure will take 3-4 days to finish.
Cost
The approximate cost of required items:
- Beeswax: $15
- Boiled linseed oil: $15
- Turpentine: $10
- Double boiler and stirrer: $20
- Brush: $5
- Heat gun: $20
- Measuring cup: $5
- Electric burner: $20
The total estimated cost: $110
3. How To Waterproof Fabric Naturally Using Soybean Oil and Turpentine?
Soybean oil is another example of drying oil. It hardens because of its radical-based polymerization. And while making the fabric highly water-resistant, it also gets soaked into the fabric fibers and moisturizes them.
It is lighter in color compared to most other drying oils. However, its drying time is longer than linseed oil. It will keep the fabric waterproof for at least a few months. After that, you’d need to reapply it to the fabric.
Turpentine is used as a solvent, which makes the soybean oil dry rapidly. Turpentine is made from distilling pine tree resin or gum. It is used as a solvent and thinner, which makes the soybean oil dry rapidly. It darkens the fabric up to some extent.
The mixture of soybean and turpentine oil can be foul-smelling. But the smell usually dissipates after sufficient drying and curing.
Required Items
Procedure [Step by Step]
1. Clean and dry the fabric

- Wash the fabric using soap and water.
- Let it dry thoroughly, else the oil and turpentine won’t be absorbed into the pores of the fabric.
2. Mix soybean oil and turpentine oil together

- Spread a newspaper or drop sheet on the working surface.
- Take a bucket and pour soybean oil using a measuring cup.
- Next, measure the turpentine equal to half the amount of soybean oil.
- Mix soybean oil and turpentine well using a brush or stirrer.
3. Brush-on the mixture

- Spread out the fabric.
- Dip a sturdy wide and flat brush into the mixture.
- With overlapping strokes, cover the fabric with the mixture.
- Make sure the strokes blend well and the coat is even.
4. Let the fabric dry

- Hang the fabric in a place where there is adequate airflow.
- Allow the fabric to dry for 1-day minimum.
Precautions and aftercare
- The procedure should be carried out outdoors or in a place with adequate ventilation.
- If any mixture remains, store it in a container with an airtight lid.
- The waterproofed fabric should never be washed in a washing machine.
- Do a test patch to make sure you’re satisfied with the grittiness and appearance of the oiled fabric.
- Turpentine is a fire hazard, therefore protect your fabric against any fire or excessive heat. Also, turpentine should not be poured into a drain.
- Reapply the mixture seasonally or as per the requirement of the fabric.
Time
The total time required for this method would be around 2 days.
Cost
The approximate cost of required items:
- Soybean oil: $50
- Turpentine: $10
- Bucket: $10
- Measuring cup: $5
- Brush: $5
The total estimated cost: $80
Final Words:
All the methods described above make the fabric waterproof and sturdy enough to handle water ranging from moisture to light downpour.
- Pure beeswax is fit for waterproofing leather, or cotton, nylon, and other such fabrics. It will hold well for a long time if the fabric is only meant to use indoors.
- Boiled linseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine provide more stiffness to the fabric. Also, the concoction is easier to apply. It can be used on practically any fabric (except leather).
- The last method which uses soybean oil and turpentine is also a competent one. Soybean oil is lighter in color and less reactive than linseed oil. These methods work better with natural fabrics since their fibers readily soak in wax and oil.
All these natural waterproofing substances will diminish over time owing to abrasion. Thus, they should be reapplied from time to time.


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